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In Heaven, With Margherita

We might not rush back for the food. But we’ll return for the attentive service and smiles on the children’s faces

Pizza Express
Dhanraj Mahal, Apollo Bunder
Tel: 6656 2633
Meal for two: Rs 1,400

Not so long ago, foreign food chains landed in India to a rousing reception—complete with ecstatic articles and noisy controversies. In comparison, Pizza Express’s arrival has been a low-key affair.

Nevertheless, the British eatery—with retro decor and upmarket fast food-—is att-ra-cting tourists and spra-wl-ing Indian families. And the children are in cheesy heaven.

As soon as we get a table, my children head for the open kitchen where deft chefs are pummelling dough. They decide to make their own kid-sized pizzas.

Meanwhile, we pore over tempting options: A Cipolla Caramellata con Noci pizza with caramelised onions, walnuts, red and yellow pepper, olives and artichokes (Rs 570), linguini with prawns, clams, squid (Rs 530).

We start with the restaurant’s addictive Dough Balls (Rs 140). The Bosco salad (Rs 350) with mushrooms, baby mozzarella, avocado, tomatoes, spinach and roc-ket is fresh and crunchy—but a bit high on the green leaves and low on the fun stuff.

The children’s pizzas—Mar--gherita (Rs 200) and Chi-cken (Rs 275)—are fla-vourful to begin with, but a trifle chewy when cool. Our thin, crispy 14-inch Padano (Rs 590) with goat’s cheese, mozzarella, caramelised oni-ons and a frill of crunchy spinach is delicious at first, but soon becomes limp.

The desserts don’t disappoint. The vanilla cheesecake is brilliant with creamy mascarpone (Rs 250). While the Chocolate Fudge Glory, with its vanilla gelato, fudge cake and chocolate sauce is the kiddie treat (Rs 290).

As we trundle out, we agree that we might not rush back for the food. But we’ll return for the attentive service and smiles on the children’s faces.

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